Question 1

How do I calculate board and batten siding?

Accepted Answer

Divide the wall width by the effective coverage of one board — its actual width minus the overlap the battens take on each side — then add waste. You need one batten per seam, which works out to the same count as the boards.

Question 2

How far apart should battens be?

Accepted Answer

Anywhere from 8 to 24 inches on centre, driven by the board width you choose. Twelve inches suits most homes; wider spacing reads more modern and narrower reads more traditional.

Question 3

How wide should battens be?

Accepted Answer

Two to three inches is typical. The batten must span the gap between boards plus at least half an inch onto each board, so it stays sealed when the boards shrink in dry weather.

Question 4

Do boards go on first or battens?

Accepted Answer

Boards first, then battens over the seams. Nail the wide boards near their centre only, so they can expand and contract; nail the battens through the gap between boards rather than through the boards themselves.

Question 5

What wood is best for board and batten?

Accepted Answer

Cedar and redwood for natural rot resistance, pine or spruce as a cheaper primed option, and fibre cement or engineered wood where you want minimum maintenance. In wet climates the material choice matters more than the fastening pattern.

Question 6

Should I subtract windows and doors?

Accepted Answer

Subtract the area for material volume, but not from the board count — a board interrupted by a window still runs the full wall height in two pieces. This is why 10% waste is a floor rather than a ceiling on walls with many openings.

Question 7

How much does board and batten siding cost?

Accepted Answer

Pine runs roughly $2–4 per square foot in material, cedar $5–9, and fibre cement $3–6. Installation typically doubles the figure, and complex walls with many openings push labour higher.

Question 8

Can board and batten go over existing siding?

Accepted Answer

Over flat siding with furring strips, yes. Over lap siding you need to fur out to a flat plane first. Either way a water-resistive barrier goes behind, and the furring must land on studs to hold the fasteners.

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